Top 10 trattorie by neighborhood
Testaccio (the temple of Roman cuisine): Da Felice, Flavio al Velavevodetto, Perilli, Checchino dal 1887. Trastevere: Da Enzo al 29 (queue, no reservations, worth it), Da Teo, Da Lucia. Monti: La Carbonara (yes, that one), Trattoria Vecchia Roma. Prati: L'Arcangelo. Centro: Armando al Pantheon (reserve weeks ahead).
The 4 pasta classics to order
Carbonara (egg yolk + guanciale + pecorino + black pepper — NO cream, NO bacon, NO peas). Cacio e Pepe (pecorino romano + black pepper + pasta water — only 3 ingredients, hardest to do well). Amatriciana (guanciale + tomato + pecorino). Gricia (the 'white amatriciana' — guanciale + pecorino, no tomato). All €11–16 in a real trattoria.
Secondi & contorni
Saltimbocca alla Romana (veal + prosciutto + sage). Coda alla Vaccinara (oxtail stew). Abbacchio (lamb). Trippa alla Romana. Carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style fried artichokes, Ghetto). Puntarelle (winter chicory). Cicoria ripassata. Sides: €4–7. Mains: €14–22.
Red flags for tourist traps
Photos of food on the menu. Menus in 6 languages. Guy outside grabbing your arm. 'Tourist menu' for €15 with bread, pasta, water. Carbonara with cream. Spaghetti bolognese (not Roman, not even Italian beyond Bologna). Locations directly facing Trevi/Navona/Spanish Steps.
How to behave & save money
Lunch is cheaper than dinner. Coperto (cover charge) €1.50–3 per person — normal, on the bill. Acqua naturale/frizzante (still/sparkling water) €2–3 a bottle. House wine (vino della casa) €4–6 a quarter-liter. Tip: no obligation; €1–2 per person if happy. Reservations: essential for Testaccio classics on weekends.