Top 8 pasticcerie by neighborhood
Trastevere: Biscottificio Innocenti (since 1920, biscuits), Roscioli Caffè. Centro: Regoli (Esquilino, the maritozzo champion), Boccione (Jewish Ghetto, ricotta cake). Prati/Vaticano: Pasticceria De Bellis (modern). Monti: La Bottega del Caffè. Testaccio: Barberini, Andreotti (via Ostiense, queue out the door).
What to order for breakfast
Cornetto vuoto/crema/cioccolato/marmellata (croissant: plain/cream/chocolate/jam) — €1.20–1.80. Maritozzo con la panna (sweet bun split open and overfilled with whipped cream) — €3–5, the Roman icon. Sfogliatella (Naples-style, layered crispy ricotta pastry). Cannolo siciliano. Crostata. Pair with espresso (€1.20) or cappuccino (€1.50).
The maritozzo: Rome's signature pastry
A soft sweet bun split horizontally and filled with so much whipped cream it overflows. €3–5. Best at Regoli (Esquilino, the original), Roscioli Caffè (centro), or Pasticceria De Bellis (Prati). NOT a tourist invention — Romans have been eating this for 500 years.
Breakfast etiquette
Italians eat sweet, never savory. No bacon, eggs, or hot food at breakfast — that's lunch. Eat at the counter (€1.20 espresso) not the table (€3–6). Cappuccino is a breakfast drink only — never after 11am, never after meals. Ordering one at 4pm marks you as a tourist.