The 7 instant red flags
Start with the menu. If it's translated into four or more languages and every dish comes with a photo, you're already in trouble: real trattorias don't need pictures because regulars know what they want. The host stationed outside calling people in is another giveaway, because busy places fill themselves and don't have to beg. A 'tourist menu' bundling antipasto, pasta and dessert for around €15 is exactly what the kitchen thinks it can get away with at that price. Tables placed right in front of a famous monument or fountain pay rent so high that something has to give, and it's usually the food. Carbonara with cream on the menu is a walk-out: the real recipe contains zero cream. Pizza served around the clock is a Rome impossibility (proper pizzerias open only for dinner, or only for lunch), and any mention of 'spaghetti bolognese' confirms the place is writing for foreigners who've never been to Italy, because the dish doesn't exist here.
Fake 'Italian' dishes that no Roman eats
Spaghetti bolognese (the real ragù is from Bologna and goes with tagliatelle, never spaghetti). Chicken alfredo (invented in the US — Alfredo only exists as a butter-and-parmesan pasta). Garlic bread (not Italian). Caesar salad with Italian flag toothpicks. Carbonara with cream or peas. Pizza with pineapple. Tiramisu in a wine glass with pink sprinkles. Any 'cappuccino' offered after a meal (Italians only drink it before 11 AM).
Real Roman dishes to actually order
Pasta: cacio e pepe (pasta + pecorino + black pepper, only 3 ingredients but technical), carbonara (eggs, guanciale, pecorino, pepper — NO cream, NO bacon), amatriciana (tomato, guanciale, pecorino), gricia (no tomato amatriciana). Mains: saltimbocca alla romana, abbacchio scottadito, coda alla vaccinara, trippa alla romana. Antipasti: carciofi alla giudia (Jewish Ghetto), supplì (fried rice balls), fiori di zucca fritti. Sweet: maritozzo for breakfast.
Neighborhoods where Romans actually eat
Testaccio: the food capital, Mercato di Testaccio for street food, Flavio al Velavevodetto for classic Roman pastas, Da Felice for cacio e pepe (book). Trastevere (off main streets): Da Enzo al 29 (book 2 weeks ahead), Da Teo, Tonnarello, Roma Sparita. Monti: La Carbonara, Fafiuché. Prati (Vatican area): Pizzarium for pizza al taglio (Bonci, world-famous). Pigneto: hipster but real, Pigneto Quarantuno. Garbatella: 100% local zone, no tourists.
Pizza in Rome: thin and crispy ≠ Naples
Roman pizza is THIN and CRISPY (pizza romana), not the puffy Neapolitan style. Two formats: pizza al taglio (rectangular, sold by weight, eat standing — €3–€8 per piece, the gold standard is Bonci's Pizzarium) and pizza tonda (round, evening-only at pizzerie). Don't expect Neapolitan-style margherita in Rome — it's a different product, equally good if you accept what it is.
Coffee, gelato and street food rules
Coffee: order 'un caffè' (you'll get espresso) at the bar. €1.20 standing, €3+ sitting. Don't order cappuccino after lunch — it's a giveaway. Gelato: real gelato is in METAL containers (not piled up in fluorescent mountains), uses seasonal flavors and NEVER neon-blue 'puffo'. Try Otaleg, Fatamorgana, Giolitti, Della Palma. Street food: supplì (rice ball with mozzarella, fried), pizza al taglio, trapizzino (pizza pocket with stew). Skip generic fast-food and kebab counters right next to the major monuments — they cater to walk-by traffic, not to flavor.